Travelers to Buddhist and Hindu countries might find a review of AUM valuable, as it exemplifies many of the fundamental tenets of these faiths.

The symbol of AUM (also spelled “Om”) consists of three curves, one semicircle, and a dot; these are symbols of each person’s self and his potential:

• The large curve (in the lower left corner of the image) symbolizes the waking state.  Perhaps it is best to think of this curve as symbolic of the “ego”, our outward persona, the person we think we should be, that identity that we consciously associate with the “self”.
• Moving clockwise, the upper curve (upper left corner) symbolizes the unconscious state, that part of the “self” that is hidden to the one’s consciousness but is equally part of the “self”.
• The middle curve, which extends from the center to the right side, symbolizes the dream state. This dream state, positioned vertically between the conscious and unconscious elements of the “self”, serves as a means to connect the two, a means for the conscious and unconscious to interact.  This is certainly what we do when we dream…the unconscious becomes conscious, affording a more complete view of the “self”.
• The semicircle or crescent symbolizes symbolizes illusion, specifically in this case, the illusion that the self exists as a separate entity at all.  Notice that the crescent separates the dot from the other three curves.  It is this illusion that separates the individual from becoming one with his infinite self, beyond boundaries.
• The dot signifies the infinite, absolute self, hidden from the individual by illusion; this is what the Eastern faiths of Hinduism and Buddhism consider God.   Dispelling the illusion and becoming one with this infinite self is the ultimate experience of life and the experience of the divine.

One of our favorite descriptions of AUM, which touches on many of the symbols described above, can be found in Joseph Campbell’s book “The Hero with a Thousand Faces“.  Campbell breaks down each of AUM’s three phonemes, a, u and m:

• The A representing the realm of waking experience: “cognitive of the hard gross facts of an outer universe, illuminated by the sun, and common to all”.
• The U representing the realm of dream experience: “cognitive of the fluid, subtle forms of a private interior world, self-luminous and of one substance with the dreamer”.
• The M representing the realm of deep sleep: “dreamless, profoundly beautiful” (the person unified with the unconscious and the greater self).

For Campbell, the most profound element of AUM is not the sound, however, but the silence: “The silence surrounding the syllable is the unknown: it is called simply ‘the fourth’.  The syllable itself is God as creator-preserver-destroyer, but the silence is God Eternal, absolutely uninvolved in all the openings-and-closings of the round.”

Experience the silence!

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Religion: Buddhism

Buddhism began as a rebellious offspring of Hinduism in India, “Hindu Protestantism”, if you will, and migrated out of India to the rest of Asia via the Silk Road and other trade routes. This guide seeks to provide a framework for understanding the faith and help readers gain an understanding of this religion’s rich, global cultural legacy. Learn more about Buddhism…

Religion: Hinduism

This document is designed to provide a comprehensive background on the history of the Hindu religion, a discussion of the primary Hindu gods (and how to recognize them), the central tenets of the faith, the history of and thoughts espoused in the primary Hindu religious texts, the relevant religious symbolism, and the primary related religious movements. Learn more about Hinduism…

Thalis are one of the most delicious and inexpensive dishes that you will encounter throughout your travels in India; however, they can be intimidating if you don’t know how to eat them. Our friend, Surya, generously gave us a few lessons in how to approach eating thalis – we hope that this guide helps you as much as it did us. Enjoy!

The thali is typically served on a round plate (or more traditionally, a banana leaf), with small bowls (including vegetables, curries and curd) lining the periphery; in the center of the plate is places a heap of plain rice, which is replenished as you move through the meal.

Although thalis can now be found in the north and south of India, the thali (Hindi for “the plate”) has its origins in South India, given its orientation around rice (as compared to the north’s orientation around wheat).

Fingers, please… A thali is traditionally eaten with your fingers, and only with the finger of the right hand, specifically. Use your left hand only for pouring the curries onto your rice and to grasp your drinking glass.

Rice is central to the dish. The rice sits in the center of the plate; you divide off a portion of the rice and place the different curries or vegetables on top of that portion (rather than pouring the sauce over the top of the whole pile of rice on your plate). Mix the sauces in with the rice with your fingers to get a good spread throughout the rice.

There is an order to the progression of thali eating:

• Begin by eating any of the vegetables (in both curries and dry form) on the plate. You can also eat the vegetables throughout as an accompaniment to the rice and sauce courses to follow.
• The fiery lentil-based vegetable sauce called “sambhar” is next to be eaten (it is added to a portion of rice as you desire).
• The chili- and tamarind-based “vathal kozhambu”, the spiciest of the three sauces, is eaten next with rice. Note that this sauce is not always given.
• The “rasam”, mixed with rice, is always eaten last of the sauces. It imparts a tomatoey and peppery palate.
• Curd (yoghurt) mixed with rice is always eaten last, to cool your palate and aid with digestion. The roasted dry chili can be added for balance.
• There is sometimes a sweet for dessert added as well.

Then again, you could just wing it! Just pretend like you know what you are doing and all will be well….Enjoy!

Recommended Travel Guide to India

Approach Guide to India: Hindu Art & Architecture

Hindu architecture, while structurally simple (no arches are ever used in its construction), exhibits some of the most ornate decoration and symbolic design elements in the world. This guidebook offers travelers an approach to understanding Hindu architecture and sculpture and be able to easily answer questions like, “What’s the main difference between Hindu architecture in the North and South” and “What Mediterranean culture influenced Indian sculpture?” (Hint: think Alexander the Great). Read more

Download a FREE PREVIEW (4 of 20 pages)

Price $5.99 (Format: PDF; available for immediate download)

The Tibetan faithful at Jokhang Temple, Lhasa. Prayer beads are used by both Theravada and Mahayana Buddhists.

The use of prayer beads, or japa malas, in both Buddhism and Hinduism speaks to a historical connection between the two faiths; however, Buddhist japa malas typically contain a lesser number of beads than the Hindu japa malas’ 108 — it is usually a divisor of 108. There many potential explanations for the significance of the number 108, however, none alone appears offers a definitive explanation.

The beads are typically made from the seeds or wood of the Bodhi tree (a.k.a. “ficus religosa” or fig tree; this is the tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment) and are typically used as counters, thereby enabling the faithful to keep track of recitations of mantras or prayers, prostrations, circumambulations and so forth.

The large bead on the strand is symbolic of the wisdom that allows one to recognize emptiness (sunyata) and the bell-shaped bead surmounting it is symbolic of “emptiness” itself (the bell is always a Buddhist symbol for emptiness; its ringing is the sound of emptiness).

A few words on Buddhist philosophy: “Emptiness” signifies that everything one encounters in life is empty of absolute identity, permanence, or an in-dwelling ‘self’ (anatta).  All things are connected and mutually dependent, in a constant state of flux, transforming and becoming (rather than self-centered and fixed).  The Buddhists believe that only when this abandonment of “self” occurs can the transcendent state of enlightenment be achieved.

How to Use Buddhist Prayer Beads

A mantra is said as each bead is spun (in turn) in a counterclockwise direction (similar to circumambulation of the stupa).

The rotation through the beads is also typically done in a counterclockwise motion beginning at the first bead after the large central bead. This large bead is used a counter, signaling that one full rotation of the beads (108 mantras) has be achieved. This process is of 108-bead cycles is repeated countless times.

Learning More

This excerpt is from our ApproachGuide to Religion: Buddhism, which provides travelers with a framework for understanding the faith and help readers appreciate Buddhism’s rich, global cultural legacy.  Read more

Download a FREE PREVIEW (3 of 16 pages)

Price $10 (Format: PDF; available immediately)

Tiger, Kanha. Taken on location from the back of an elephant during a "tiger show".

There are only 5,000 tigers remaining in the world today. India hosts a staggering 60% of this total, with the next largest population in Southeast Asia. There are no tigers in Africa, which gives tourists to India a unique safari experience.  Seeing a tiger in the wild should be a priority on any traveler’s itinerary.

The centrally-located Madhya Pradesh province holds two of the best places to see tigers in the wild. After viewing the stunning Islamic architecture of Delhi and Agra or visiting the amazing Buddhist caves outside of Mumbai, take a quick flight to Kanha National Park or Bandhavgarh National Park (outside of Khajuraho) to to view one of India’s most unique natural sites: tigers.

Why Kanha or Bandhavgarh?

There are only two wildlife parks in India that offer you the opportunity to ride into inaccessible (by car) areas of the park on mahout-driven elephants to view tigers up-close during the day (this is called a “tiger show”): Bandhavgarh and Kanha (both are located close to each other in the province of Madhya Pradesh). In addition, both parks have a large tiger population, making them the two premier spots in India for sightings.

Information on Bengal Tigers

• The tiger is the largest of all thirty-seven species of wild cats. Along with the lion, the leopard, the snow leopard and the jaguar, the tiger is classified in the genus “Panthera”, which comprises the group of big cats that are capable of roaring, due to a modification of the hyboid bone.
• There are probably 5,000 tigers remaining in the world today (this estimate was given to us by researchers at Kanha). India hosts 60% of this total (the subspecies specifically being the “Bengal Tiger”), with the greatest concentration thereafter being in Southeast Asia (there are no tigers in Africa).
• Tigers are the only big cats with stripes.  The stripe patterns on each tiger, designed for camouflage, differ on each side of its body.
• Males weigh 400-500 lbs and females 220-350 lbs.
• Tigers are successful in 1 out of every 10-20 attempts to stalk and kill prey. Tigers kill their prey with either a bite on the back of the neck that serves to sever the spinal column or a bite on the throat that serves to suffocate its prey. An adult tigress needs to kill a fair-sized prey (200 lbs) 40-50 times per year, or every 7-8 days.
• Tigers possess two sensory enhancements, neither of which is unique to this species: the tepetum lucidum, a reflective patch in the retina which improves vision in low light conditions; and the vemeronasal organ (VNO), sometimes called Jacobseon’s organ, which is located in the roof of the mouth. The use of the VNO is most obvious in the grimace known as flehmen, in which the animal wrinkles its nose and extends its tongue; the VNO is designed to evaluate the sexual receptivity of females.
• Tigers have evolved as basically solitary animals (as compared to lions that exists largely in group formations). Both males and females are territorial and have specifically staked out areas in which each animal pursues prey.
• Females nurse cubs for 20-24 months; gestation period of 105 days; average litter of 2-3 cubs, with high mortality rate (34% in first year, 17% in second), the most common reason for death being infanticide, the killing of the cubs by a new male looking to mate with the mother tiger.
• Poaching is still a real problem, particularly because elements of the tiger are still in in demand for traditional Chinese medicine.

Hotel. Kipling Camp. 07649/277218. www.kiplingcamp.com. Although it is far from luxury and a bit expensive, this is the quintessential (and first) camp in the area, to the best of our knowledge. It is located right outside of the entrance to Kanha. The camp appears to suffer a little from a staff turnover issue, however, it is more than adequate. You are here to see tigers and they maximize your experience on this front, running a morning and afternoon game drive led by experienced naturalists.

Information on other parks in India. Dave and Deb, Canada’s Adventure Couple, recently posted a feature on Ranthambore National Preserve, which was taken from a feature by Akila of The Road Forks.

Listen to the adhan from Masjid Al-Aqsa, Jersusalem

One of the most distinctive elements associated with traveling around the Middle East and countries with large Islamic populations is hearing the call to prayer (adhan) five times each day. Although in some places, like Dubai, the call to prayer is subtle, in other locations, such as Islamic Cairo or Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and can be loudly heard throughout the city streets.

English translation of the Islamic call to prayer

God is most great (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned four times).
I testify that there is no God but Allah (“Ashhadu anna la ilah ill’-Allah“; intoned twice)
I testify that Mohammed is his Prophet (“Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah“; intoned twice)
Come to prayer (“Hayya ‘ala ‘l-salah“; intoned twice).
Come to security/salvation (“Hayya ‘ala’l-falah“; intoned twice).
God is most great. (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned twice)
There is no God but Allah (“La ilah ill’Allah“; intoned once).
Prayer is better than sleep (“Al-salatu khayr min Al-nawm“; intoned twice) This line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the morning (pre-sunrise)
Benediction and peace upon you, oh apostle of Allah (“Al-salatu wa’l-salam ‘alayka ya rasul Allah“; intoned once).

Muslim prayer times

Muslims pray five times each day (pre-dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening) in the direction of Mecca. Travelers can use Al-Islam or an iPhone app that gives daily prayer times and quibla direction (facing Mecca) for destinations throughout the world.

Friday at the mosque

Friday is the day on which all Muslims, especially males, should go to the mosque at 12:00 (noon) for congregational prayer. Given this requirement, many shops outside of tourist areas will close as the owners make their way to the local Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque).  The mosque will certainly be closed to non-Muslims during this time.

Minaret, Cairo, Egypt

Visiting mosques

• Typically, mosques are closed to tourists during prayer times; we recommend visiting just before the worship begins so that you can hear the call to prayer as it reverberates throughout the interior spaces of the mosque.
• Always walk behind worshipers that are praying, so they do not pray “to” you, but rather towards Mecca.
• Wear conservative clothes (sleeves, pants/skirts below the knees) and remove your your shoes before entering the mosque. Often you will find a local willing to “guard” your shoes for a small fee.
• Women travelers: Jennifer recommends that women follow the locals’ lead and wear a long shirt/shirtdress that covers their backside. Also, women may be required to wear a headscarf upon entering a mosque; you can bring your own or borrow one from the mosque.

Historical function of the minaret

Historically, the minarets were used by the mosque’s muezzins as tall platforms from which to call Muslims to prayer and to announce the central tenant of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam) typically recites the call to prayer into a microphone in the main prayer hall where it is then pumped through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.

Listen to the adhan from Masjid Al-Aqsa, Jersusalem

One of the most distinctive elements associated with traveling around the Middle East and countries with large Islamic populations is hearing the call to prayer (adhan) five times each day. Although in some places, like Dubai, the call to prayer is subtle, in other locations, such as Islamic Cairo or Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and can be loudly heard throughout the city streets.

English translation of the Islamic call to prayer

God is most great (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned four times).
I testify that there is no God but Allah (“Ashhadu anna la ilah ill’-Allah“; intoned twice)
I testify that Mohammed is his Prophet (“Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah“; intoned twice)
Come to prayer (“Hayya ‘ala ‘l-salah“; intoned twice).
Come to security/salvation (“Hayya ‘ala’l-falah“; intoned twice).
God is most great. (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned twice)
There is no God but Allah (“La ilah ill’Allah“; intoned once).
Prayer is better than sleep (“Al-salatu khayr min Al-nawm“; intoned twice) This line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the morning (pre-sunrise)
Benediction and peace upon you, oh apostle of Allah (“Al-salatu wa’l-salam ‘alayka ya rasul Allah“; intoned once).

Muslim prayer times

Muslims pray five times each day (pre-dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening) in the direction of Mecca. Travelers can use Al-Islam or an iPhone app that gives daily prayer times and quibla direction (facing Mecca) for destinations throughout the world.

Friday at the mosque

Friday is the day on which all Muslims, especially males, should go to the mosque at 12:00 (noon) for congregational prayer. Given this requirement, many shops outside of tourist areas will close as the owners make their way to the local Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque).  The mosque will certainly be closed to non-Muslims during this time.

Minaret, Cairo, Egypt

Visiting mosques

• Typically, mosques are closed to tourists during prayer times; we recommend visiting just before the worship begins so that you can hear the call to prayer as it reverberates throughout the interior spaces of the mosque.
• Always walk behind worshipers that are praying, so they do not pray “to” you, but rather towards Mecca.
• Wear conservative clothes (sleeves, pants/skirts below the knees) and remove your your shoes before entering the mosque. Often you will find a local willing to “guard” your shoes for a small fee.
• Women travelers: Jennifer recommends that women follow the locals’ lead and wear a long shirt/shirtdress that covers their backside. Also, women may be required to wear a headscarf upon entering a mosque; you can bring your own or borrow one from the mosque.

Historical function of the minaret

Historically, the minarets were used by the mosque’s muezzins as tall platforms from which to call Muslims to prayer and to announce the central tenant of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam) typically recites the call to prayer into a microphone in the main prayer hall where it is then pumped through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.

“Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”
-Mark Twain, giving his (not entirely inaccurate) description of Varanasi

Bathers in the Ganga (Ganges) River in Varanasi, India

The city name, “Varanasi” (also known as Benares), is derived from the two tributaries of the Ganga — Varuna and Asi — between which it is situated; the city is also known as Benares, a corruption of the name “Varanasi”.  However, historically, the city has been known to the Hindus as “Kasha”, which means “brightness”, which gives the city its title as the “city of light”.

Some random points and observations:

• The cycle of life. Hindus strongly believe in the circle of life; in Varanasi in particular, this cycle is is very tangible, omnipresent: birth and death dominate the rituals of daily life.  The belief is reinforced by the city’s physical layout: Varanasi is entirely positioned on the west side of the Ganges (symbolic of the city’s association with “death” as the Hindu cremation center), facing directly east (symbolic of rebirth).
• The east-facing direction of city creates incredible morning light; a sunrise boat ride is a “”must”. Since the city is entirely positioned on the west bank, sunrise boat rides afford the early riser unparalleled, magical, orange-hued views of ritual bathers performing puja (worship) of the rising sun and doing laundry. The cost (paid directly to the boat rower) runs about $1/person/hour.
• The ghats.  The stone steps (ghats) lining the Ganges — descending from the city, down the riverbank, and into to the river — emphasize the city’s focus on the sacred river. There are over 100 individual ghats in total lining the river’s edge; these steps make access to the river possible during wet (when the river runs high and only a few steps are visible) and dry (when the river runs low and many steps are visible) seasons.
• The age of the city. According to Hindu tradition, Varanasi is the oldest city in the world, the eternal city of Shiva. However, to put this in historical perspective, the city was likely settled by the Aryans, as they progressed eastward across the Gangetic plain in the earlier part of the 1st millenium BCE (1000-750 BCE). Although certainly still pretty old, this would make it far younger than the oldest Indian subcontinent civilization, the Harappan civilization (2300-1000 BCE) along the Indus River Valley, which existed simultaneously with the Sumerians in Mesopotamia (2900-1800 BCE) and the Old Kingdom Egyptians (2650-2134 BCE).
• “Burning” or cremation ghats.
  • As the Hindus’ most sacred city, Hindus arrange (to the extent possible) to die and be cremated in city, whereupon their ashes are left to be carried away by the sacred Ganges river.
  • The cremation fires at these ghats burn 24-hours a day, 7 days a week.
  • Firewood used for cremation: mango tree for common people and sandalwood for rich.
  • Double the weight of the body is required in firewood in order to cremate the body — it takes about 3 hours.
  • Not everyone can be cremated. If you suffered from a snakebite, were pregnant when you died, or suffered from leprosy, you cannot be cremated. As a result, 25,000 corpses are weighted-down and dropped into the Ganges every year (not cremated).
  • The premier cremation ghat in the city is Manikarnika Ghat, and lies about a 5-10 minutes walk north of the main ghat.
  • No photographs are permitted, for obvious reasons
• Ganges ceremonies at sunset at the main (Dashaswamedh) ghat. Every day, as the sun sets, multiple Ganges ceremonies begin on the steps of the main ghat. The ceremony consists of bell-ringing (to ward off evil spirits) and offering a series of seven gifts of light (the light gets progressively brighter) to the river; it ends by floating candles on the water and pouring water into the Ganges. A definiitely memorable experience…

Travel Guide

For travels throughout North and South India, we recommend using our ApproachGuides to India, which will complement existing travel guides and give you a deep appreciation for the country and its cultural, historic and artistic background.