There are several books that we recommend for an upcoming trip to Turkey. We try to give readers a selection of books that give the story behind Turkey’s history and focus on it’s powerful political and religious past, its architectural contributions and delicious food.

A Short History of Byzantium by John Julius Norwich

Of all the books that we have ever read, those by John Julius Norwich are some of the most interesting and entertaining historical accounts. His writing style is so captivating that you are at times unsure if you are reading historical truth or a tale of intrigue and power. In fact, the history of Byzantium is both. The age of Byzantium (330-1453 CE) picked up steam as Rome fell to barbarians and the seat of the Holy Roman Empire was transferred East to Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul); this set in motion an enduring conflict among the christian leadership in Constantinople and Rome.  The Byzantines went on to control overland and maritime trade with the East, eventually running into conflict with the Venetians for supremacy (which resulted in the sacking of Constantinople by the Venetians in 1204 as part of the Fourth Crusade — yes, the Crusaders sacked a christian city).  It all came to an end in 1453, when the city fell to seemingly unstoppable Ottoman forces in 1453.

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The Deesis in Hagia Sophia (Istanbul, Turkey)

Deesis (Christ Pantocrator) Mosaic in Hagia Sophia

In Byzantine art, the Deesis is a traditional representation of Christ enthroned, flanked by Mary and St. John the Baptist; these two figures are appealing to Christ for mercy on behalf of the beholder (viewer) on Judgment Day.

In Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, visitors to the south gallery (upstairs) can find a fantastic mosaic image of the Deesis.  Made in the late 13th century (possibly 1261), this is the highest detail mosaic in the church and one of the most impressive mosaics in the world. Continue reading

The area of Cappadocia in Turkey is one of the most beautiful and unique areas in the world. It is worth a visit for the hikes through its fantastic valleys lined with cave-hewn chapels and unique rock formations.

While there, we stayed at one of the areas boutique cave hotels: Les Maisons de Cappadoce.

Quite simply, Les Maisons de Cappadoce is an awesome hotel!

Les Maisons de Cappadoce is located in Uchisar, a small yet ancient village, located outside the busier, touristy town of Goreme. Although there are a few other hotels and restaurants in the area, it is a tranquil place where the buildings and residents coexist with the natural environment.

Interior of Studio les Chevres

The rooms, most of which are individual cave dwellings, have been carefully restored by French architect Jacques Avizou, who used old photographs, local craftsman and ancient building techniques to return the homes to their original beauty. Jacques has also decorated each room with local furniture and textiles and contemporary fixtures in the bath and kitchen areas.

Our favorite room available is Studio les Chevres; it is one of the few rooms that is completely carved out of the rock (without any additions to the structure). It is an intimate space with magnificent views over the valley below. We highly recommend staying in this room if it is available.

Although the rooms at Les Maisons de Cappadoce are significantly more expensive when compared to other places in the area (they currently list at 140+ Euros/night), in our opinion, it is worth it.

Touring the Cave-Hewn Chapels

The number of cave churches in Cappadocia — carved directly from the area’s soft, volcanic tuff rock — is estimated at 1,000, with over 150 that are decorated with frescoes.  The architecture, in particular, is amazing: the cave churches employ Byzantine-style architectural elements (such as columns, domes, and pendentives), all of which have no structural significance (they are carved into solid rock, with no load).

We highly recommend reserving a guide to trek through the Cappadocia area through the hotel. As you would expect from an architect, Jacques has contracted the services of guides that can offer the best look at the Cappadocia from a historical, architectural and environmental perspective.

Watching the Sunset

Uchisar boasts a 60-meter-high rock formation that rises above the center of the small town. A climb to the top provides the best vantage point to be had of the entire Cappadocian landscape. It’s a good stop for sunset.

What to Read Before Your Trip

Turkey’s historical synergies and cultural vibrancy combine to make for an unforgettable travel experience. To gain a full understanding of the country’s complexities, we recommend the following:

John Julius Norwich’s comprehensive but extremely entertaining book, “A Short History of Byzantium” will give you a full appreciation for the rise and fall of Constantinople and Christianity in Byzantium.

Approach Guides’ cultural travel guidebooks to Turkey, including a detailed guide to Hagia Sophia with a focus on its Islamic architectural legacy and a guide to Ancient Mediterranean Mosaics, which connects the mosaics of Turkey with those in Italy and other areas of the Mediterranean.

Listen to the adhan from Masjid Al-Aqsa, Jersusalem

One of the most distinctive elements associated with traveling around the Middle East and countries with large Islamic populations is hearing the call to prayer (adhan) five times each day. Although in some places, like Dubai, the call to prayer is subtle, in other locations, such as Islamic Cairo or Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and can be loudly heard throughout the city streets.

English translation of the Islamic call to prayer

God is most great (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned four times).
I testify that there is no God but Allah (“Ashhadu anna la ilah ill’-Allah“; intoned twice)
I testify that Mohammed is his Prophet (“Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah“; intoned twice)
Come to prayer (“Hayya ‘ala ‘l-salah“; intoned twice).
Come to security/salvation (“Hayya ‘ala’l-falah“; intoned twice).
God is most great. (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned twice)
There is no God but Allah (“La ilah ill’Allah“; intoned once).
Prayer is better than sleep (“Al-salatu khayr min Al-nawm“; intoned twice) This line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the morning (pre-sunrise)
Benediction and peace upon you, oh apostle of Allah (“Al-salatu wa’l-salam ‘alayka ya rasul Allah“; intoned once).

Muslim prayer times

Muslims pray five times each day (pre-dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening) in the direction of Mecca. Travelers can use Al-Islam or an iPhone app that gives daily prayer times and quibla direction (facing Mecca) for destinations throughout the world.

Friday at the mosque

Friday is the day on which all Muslims, especially males, should go to the mosque at 12:00 (noon) for congregational prayer. Given this requirement, many shops outside of tourist areas will close as the owners make their way to the local Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque).  The mosque will certainly be closed to non-Muslims during this time.

Minaret, Cairo, Egypt

Visiting mosques

• Typically, mosques are closed to tourists during prayer times; we recommend visiting just before the worship begins so that you can hear the call to prayer as it reverberates throughout the interior spaces of the mosque.
• Always walk behind worshipers that are praying, so they do not pray “to” you, but rather towards Mecca.
• Wear conservative clothes (sleeves, pants/skirts below the knees) and remove your your shoes before entering the mosque. Often you will find a local willing to “guard” your shoes for a small fee.
• Women travelers: Jennifer recommends that women follow the locals’ lead and wear a long shirt/shirtdress that covers their backside. Also, women may be required to wear a headscarf upon entering a mosque; you can bring your own or borrow one from the mosque.

Historical function of the minaret

Historically, the minarets were used by the mosque’s muezzins as tall platforms from which to call Muslims to prayer and to announce the central tenant of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam) typically recites the call to prayer into a microphone in the main prayer hall where it is then pumped through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.

Listen to the adhan from Masjid Al-Aqsa, Jersusalem

One of the most distinctive elements associated with traveling around the Middle East and countries with large Islamic populations is hearing the call to prayer (adhan) five times each day. Although in some places, like Dubai, the call to prayer is subtle, in other locations, such as Islamic Cairo or Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and can be loudly heard throughout the city streets.

English translation of the Islamic call to prayer

God is most great (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned four times).
I testify that there is no God but Allah (“Ashhadu anna la ilah ill’-Allah“; intoned twice)
I testify that Mohammed is his Prophet (“Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah“; intoned twice)
Come to prayer (“Hayya ‘ala ‘l-salah“; intoned twice).
Come to security/salvation (“Hayya ‘ala’l-falah“; intoned twice).
God is most great. (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned twice)
There is no God but Allah (“La ilah ill’Allah“; intoned once).
Prayer is better than sleep (“Al-salatu khayr min Al-nawm“; intoned twice) This line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the morning (pre-sunrise)
Benediction and peace upon you, oh apostle of Allah (“Al-salatu wa’l-salam ‘alayka ya rasul Allah“; intoned once).

Muslim prayer times

Muslims pray five times each day (pre-dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening) in the direction of Mecca. Travelers can use Al-Islam or an iPhone app that gives daily prayer times and quibla direction (facing Mecca) for destinations throughout the world.

Friday at the mosque

Friday is the day on which all Muslims, especially males, should go to the mosque at 12:00 (noon) for congregational prayer. Given this requirement, many shops outside of tourist areas will close as the owners make their way to the local Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque).  The mosque will certainly be closed to non-Muslims during this time.

Minaret, Cairo, Egypt

Visiting mosques

• Typically, mosques are closed to tourists during prayer times; we recommend visiting just before the worship begins so that you can hear the call to prayer as it reverberates throughout the interior spaces of the mosque.
• Always walk behind worshipers that are praying, so they do not pray “to” you, but rather towards Mecca.
• Wear conservative clothes (sleeves, pants/skirts below the knees) and remove your your shoes before entering the mosque. Often you will find a local willing to “guard” your shoes for a small fee.
• Women travelers: Jennifer recommends that women follow the locals’ lead and wear a long shirt/shirtdress that covers their backside. Also, women may be required to wear a headscarf upon entering a mosque; you can bring your own or borrow one from the mosque.

Historical function of the minaret

Historically, the minarets were used by the mosque’s muezzins as tall platforms from which to call Muslims to prayer and to announce the central tenant of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam) typically recites the call to prayer into a microphone in the main prayer hall where it is then pumped through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.