The Deesis in Hagia Sophia (Istanbul, Turkey)

In Byzantine art, the Deesis is a traditional representation of Christ enthroned, flanked by Mary and St. John the Baptist; these two figures are appealing to Christ for mercy on behalf of the beholder (viewer) on Judgment Day.

In Istanbul’s Hagia Sophia, visitors to the south gallery (upstairs) can find a fantastic mosaic image of the Deesis.  Made in the late 13th century (possibly 1261), this is the highest detail mosaic in the church and one of the most impressive mosaics in the world.

The “Byzantine style” is typically associated with flat two-dimensional, symbolic figuration, emphasized by stylized coloration with golds and blues (after all, the Christians pioneered this style as a rejection of the three-dimensional, naturalistic pagan designs of the Greeks and Romans).  However, this mosaic demonstrates the the “Byzantine Style” was anything but a consistent one; further, there was no evolution in one direction, per se, but rather an ongoing ebb-and-flow, back-and-forth from stylized to naturalistic.

The Hagia Sophia Deesis symbolizes the start of the re-emergence of a highly realistic style (albeit with stylized coloration, a characteristic that would never fade) pioneered during the post-Fourth Crusade, Palaeologan Era (1261-1453).  Although the Byzantine Empire was shaky politically and financially during this period (it had only two hundred years before its fall to the Ottoman Turks), Byzantine mosaic art arguably reaches its apex.

Deesis (Christ Pantocrator) Mosaic in Hagia Sophia

Learn more about the mosaics in Hagia Sophia and the Mediterranean
Check out our PDF travel guides to Istanbul:

Hagia Sophia and its Architectural Legacy, a detailed travel guide to Hagia Sophia

Ancient Mediterranean Mosaics, which offers an overview of the art of mosaics in Istanbul, Italy and the Middle East.

Listen to the adhan from Masjid Al-Aqsa, Jersusalem

One of the most distinctive elements associated with traveling around the Middle East and countries with large Islamic populations is hearing the call to prayer (adhan) five times each day. Although in some places, like Dubai, the call to prayer is subtle, in other locations, such as Islamic Cairo or Turkey, the call to prayer is a central part of daily life and can be loudly heard throughout the city streets.

English translation of the Islamic call to prayer

God is most great (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned four times).
I testify that there is no God but Allah (“Ashhadu anna la ilah ill’-Allah“; intoned twice)
I testify that Mohammed is his Prophet (“Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah“; intoned twice)
Come to prayer (“Hayya ‘ala ‘l-salah“; intoned twice).
Come to security/salvation (“Hayya ‘ala’l-falah“; intoned twice).
God is most great. (“Allahu Akbar“; intoned twice)
There is no God but Allah (“La ilah ill’Allah“; intoned once).
Prayer is better than sleep (“Al-salatu khayr min Al-nawm“; intoned twice) This line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the morning (pre-sunrise)
Benediction and peace upon you, oh apostle of Allah (“Al-salatu wa’l-salam ‘alayka ya rasul Allah“; intoned once).

Muslim prayer times

Muslims pray five times each day (pre-dawn, noon, afternoon, sunset and evening) in the direction of Mecca. Travelers can use Al-Islam or an iPhone app that gives daily prayer times and quibla direction (facing Mecca) for destinations throughout the world.

Friday at the mosque

Friday is the day on which all Muslims, especially males, should go to the mosque at 12:00 (noon) for congregational prayer. Given this requirement, many shops outside of tourist areas will close as the owners make their way to the local Jama Masjid (Friday Mosque).  The mosque will certainly be closed to non-Muslims during this time.

Minaret, Cairo, Egypt

Visiting mosques

• Typically, mosques are closed to tourists during prayer times; we recommend visiting just before the worship begins so that you can hear the call to prayer as it reverberates throughout the interior spaces of the mosque.
• Always walk behind worshipers that are praying, so they do not pray “to” you, but rather towards Mecca.
• Wear conservative clothes (sleeves, pants/skirts below the knees) and remove your your shoes before entering the mosque. Often you will find a local willing to “guard” your shoes for a small fee.
• Women travelers: Jennifer recommends that women follow the locals’ lead and wear a long shirt/shirtdress that covers their backside. Also, women may be required to wear a headscarf upon entering a mosque; you can bring your own or borrow one from the mosque.

Historical function of the minaret

Historically, the minarets were used by the mosque’s muezzins as tall platforms from which to call Muslims to prayer and to announce the central tenant of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam) typically recites the call to prayer into a microphone in the main prayer hall where it is then pumped through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.