Sanfelice’s Baroque Staircase in Naples

18th century Neapolitan Rococo architecture is best illustrated in the work of Ferdinando Sanfelice (1675-1748), who is known for his striking staircases. We especially love the Palazzo della Spagnuolo. Via dei Virgini, 19. Sanfelice’s stairway in this building is distinctive for its height, the large size of its perforations, and the movement of the design. This is a great example of how architecture of the Baroque keeps your eye in movement: notice in this picture how Sanfelice skillfully draws your gaze upward, giving the structure a lightness that would otherwise not exist.

Palazzo della Spagnuolo (Naples)

Cultural Travel Guide to Naples
Check out our PDF guide Approach Guide to Italy: The Italian Baroque, which offers travelers additional information on this and other Baroque architectural gems throughout Italy.

What to Drink in Napoli (by Approach Guides Wine iPhone app)

The region of Campania (which includes the city of Naples) has more to share with the world than just Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Vesuvius and the Amalfi coast; it is also a highlight for wine lovers, producing some of the best wine — both red and white — in all of Italy. We recommend trying a a bold and full-bodied red wine, such as an Aglianico or a medium-bodied and balanced white wine, like a Fiano.

Wine Guide for the iPhone
Learn more about the wines and wine regions mentioned in this post with the Approach Guides Wine iPhone app.

Restaurants in Venice can really be hit-or-miss, so you have to choose wisely.  But when you hit on a good one, it rivals the best that Italy has to offer.

Here is a list of our favorite four restaurants in Venice (we usually name our top 3, but we could not leave one of these out) — we have eaten at each of them, conservatively, 5-10x:

• Antiche Carampane. Rio Terra Rampani (San Polo) 041/524-0165. Great seafood, focused on home-style preparation with high quality ingredients. Excellent, slightly out of the way place for dinner, with a solid friendly staff and a classy, casual atmosphere. Best overall.  Antiche Carampane is a great experience, one of our favorite in Italy.  Closed Sunday and Monday.
• Alle Testiere. 5801 Calle del Mondo Novo (Castello). tel 041/522 7220. Excellent seafood restaurant. Good food, cool vibe, and the best wine list. The most elegant dining of all of the restaurants on this list. The only negative is that the seafood can be a bit over-prepared, meaning that the sauces can sometimes overwhelm the more delicate flavors of the seafood. Only 9 tables, so you have to reserve. 2 seatings: 7:30 and 9:30. Closed Sunday and Monday.
• Al Covo. Campiello della Pescheria (Castello). 041/522 3812. Delicious, very high quality Venetian seafood. Right up there with Antiche Carampane and Alle Testiere, however, we would argue that the energy level and feel are superior at the other two. Further, prices here are at least 10-20% higher than the other restaurants. However, this is the best option for dining on a Sunday or Monday, when the other top two are closed (Al Covo is closed Tuesday and Wednesday).
• La Corte Sconta. (Calle del Prestin, Castello, 3886. Near the Arsenale. tel. 041-522-7024; closed Sunday and Monday; also from 7 January to 7 February, and from 15 July to 15 August. ). An old-school seafood-oriented trattoria, that has a slightly simpler décor than the others on the list (tables topped with butcher paper and red napkins); the seafood quality is like Antiche Carampane and Alle Testiere, but it is more casual and offers simpler preparations. They base their daily menu on whatever the Chioggia fish market has to offer. We do find the service rushed, a bit pushy and prices (food and wine) higher than its peers. Although still a good dining experience, the food is the weakest of the top three.

What to Order in Venice

Seafood is definitely the way to go in Venice. Some things to look for that are particularly good and typically Venetian:

• Seppie (cuttlefish, which is basically squid, but a little larger, and with darker ink).
• Cappelunghe (razor shell clams).
• Canestrelli (Venetian scallops).
• Moeche (tiny soft shell crabs, usually fried).
• Branzino (sea bass).
• Razza (ray/skate) – although we enjoy this dish (pan sautéed) in the States, sadly, we never found the dish to be appealing in Venezia.

Like this information?
Check out our PDF guide to the Foods of Italy.

What to Drink in Venice (by AG Wine)

The Veneto produces some excellent wines. However, while we would certainly recommend going with the Veneto’s signature sparker, prosecco (particularly from the Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOC), the region’s vast and impressive red wine repertoire is not going to work with Venice’s seafood-based cuisine. Since the Veneto’s whites are generally disappointing (based on the trebbiano and garganega varieties), we would suggest looking to the nearby Friuli region. Friuli’s whites are probably the best in Italy. Look for the wines based on the friulano, sauvignon, ribolla gialla grape varieties. Keep in mind that the wines from the Collio and Collio Orientali DOC zones set the standard for the region.

Like this information?
Check out Approach Guides Wine, our new wine app for the iPhone!

The city of Turin (Torino in Italian) is often written off as an industrial city and overlooked by tourists who pass quickly by onto the surrounding vineyards and rice fields of Piedmont. However, to miss this Baroque architectural gem during your travels to Piedmont would be a mistake.

Torino offers elegant Baroque cafes, delicious Gianduiotti (hazelnut chocolates) and a charming old Baroque city, giving tourists a glimpse into life of the Savoy court.

The powerful Piedmontese Savoy kings chose Turin as their capital in 1563.  However, it was not until the arrival of the great Baroque architect Guarino Guarini  to the city in 1666 that the Baroque style, which has come to define the modern city, gained momentum.  This was exactly the same time that the Baroque in Rome had lost momentum (note that the great Roman Baroque architect Borromini died in 1667); accordingly, Turin (and Piedmont more generally) became the new center for the Baroque style and remained so for the next 100 years.

Walking Tour of Baroque Turin

This walking tour, which can be done in a few hours, guides you through some of Turin’s most beautiful sites, including several off-the-beaten-path highlights.  Works by all three of Turin’s great Baroque architects are represented: Guarino Guarini (1624-1683), Filippo Juvarra (1678-1736), and Bernardo Vittone (1702-70).

1. Your starting point should, of course, be Palazzo Reale. All of the big name architects to pass through the Savoy court – Vitozzi, Morello, Juvarra, and Alfieri – made a contribution of some kind to this royal residence. The interior rooms are simply stunning and a true testament to the theatricality of Baroque and Rococo art. Be sure to take a stroll through the gorgeous gardens attached to the palazzo.
2. From here you are just a few seconds away from Palazzo Madama where you can admire two masterpieces by Juvarra: the masterful Scalone Juvarriano (staircase) and the building’s beautiful undulating facade (notice how this is enhanced as the protruding elements are lighter in color).


Interior Dome of Chiesa di San Lorenzo

3. Heading toward the back of the piazza you’ll come to two Guarini masterpieces: la Chiesa di San Lorenzo (church) built between 1666-168 and la Cappella della Santa Sindone (chapel) built betwen 1668 and 1694. Guarini’s works are, in our opinion, the most visually compelling of all of the Baroque sites in Turin. Both are discussed in detail in our Approach Guide to Italy: Italian Baroque.
4. From here we suggest you take Via Garibaldi and follow it to Piazza Statuto. A number of the gems of the Piedmontese Baroque await you along this street (and on nearby side streets): la Chiesa di San Francesco d’Assisi designed by Vittone and Mario Ludovico Quarini; la Chiesa di Santa Maria di Piazza (this is another highlight stop; discussed in detail in our Approach Guide to Italy: Italian Baroque), a work also by Vittone; la Chiesa del Carmine by Juvarra; and the Military Quarters (on via del Carmine, at the corner with corso Valdocco) built by Juvarra between 1716 and 1728 and later touched up by Ignazio Birago di Borgaro in 1768.

Recommended Travel Guide for Turin (Torino), Italy

The Italian Baroque

The emotionally charged Baroque style first emerged in Rome and then spread throughout the Italian peninsula, with each location bringing to the movement unique architectural elements and sculptural style. Whether you plan to visit Rome, Venice, Naples, Sicily, Torino or Puglia, this guide will draw you into the action as you visit each site.  Learn more about the Baroque sites of Torino and in the rest of Italy.

Download a FREE PREVIEW (4 of 34 pages)

Price $5 (Format: PDF; available for immediate download)

During our four years in Italy, we spent an accumulated “many months” in Florence. These three restaurants consistently delivered world-class food and were the favorites that we returned to again and again.

Il Cibreo

Il Cibreo is THE restaurant that you have to go to in Florence; it ranks as one of our favorites in all of Italy. We prefer the trattoria, over the more formal ristorante and café across the street (the formal ristorante & café are very good, but very expensive, and a little stuffy); in any case, they all use the same kitchen, the only difference being that the trattoria menu is more limited. Il Cibreo’s menu is based on traditional Tuscan cooking, before the introduction of pasta. The menu sticks by classic dishes — e.g., polenta, papa al pomodoro — but they are typically done with concentrated flavors in a more sophisticated way than your typical Italian restaurant. Note that the Trattoria does not take reservations, so keep this in mind, because you will likely have to wait for a bit to be seated.

Il Cibreo Trattoria: Via dei Macci, 122R; Ristorante: Via dei Macci 118r; Telephone 055/234 1100; closed Sundays and Mondays.

Cavolo Nero

Cavolo Nero is our go-to restaurant in Florence. Located off-the-beaten-path (in the oltr’arno), this charming and elegant restaurant serves excellent, fresh food that changes with each season. Cavolo Nero’s super-friendly staff is happy to help you navigate the menu and its wine list. Another plus? The wine and food are very reasonably priced.

Cavolo Nero. Via dell’Ardiglione, 22; S.Frediano; Telephone: 055/294 744; closed Sundays (call to confirm).

Coco Lezzone

Coco Lezzone is the place to sample a real Florentine steak (bistecca fiorentina), cooked slowly on a grill; you must to call one day in advance to reserve una bistecca fiorentina (priced by the kg, that is, 2.2 lbs). Also try their delicious ribollita (traditional vegetable bread soup). The food in this unassuming family-run restaurant is excellent. When being seated, request to sit in the older front room as it is has a more authentic (old-school) feel and you get to watch the family interact with guests and each other.

Coco Lezzone (no website). Via Parioncino, 26/r, Telephone 055-287178; closed Sundays and Tuesday evenings.

Tips on Eating in Italy

We have definitely found that it is necessary to make reservations for dinner. Walk-ins are not as welcome. A reservation, made even a couple hours in advance, goes a long way and usually gets you a better table. Also, locals eat dinner around 20:30 (8:30 pm) in a city like Florence; however, dinner times may vary in small towns, so it is always best to ask someone what is typical for the area.

For more information on what to eat in Florence, check out our Approach Guide to Italian Food.

Shopping in Florence

No trip to Florence would be complete without dedicating at least some time to shopping. For those shopping-focused days, here is a list of our favorite stores that offer the best shopping experience in Florence - our list includes shops that sell unique items that you most likely won’t find outside of Italy or even Florence.

Do you have a favorite restaurant in Florence? Tell us your favorites in our comments; we would love to hear your recommendations!

We were recently nominated to participate in Tripbase’s “3 Best Kept Travel Secrets” game by our travel friends, Dave and Deb, Canada’s Adventure Couple at The Planet D and Monica at A Pair of Panties and Boxers.

“The aim of this game is to unite travel bloggers in a joint endeavor – to create an amazing list of top travel recommendations across the globe to share with the entire online travel community.” – Katie from Tripbase.com.

So here are our Cultural Travel  Secrets:

China’s Spirit Roads: Jianling Tomb

A unique element of the Chinese funerary complex, is the “Spirit Road”, a line-up of statuary that leads to an imperial mausoleum. One of the most striking elements of the Spirit Roads (some which date back to 450 CE) is that they can be up to 1 kilometer long and comprised of hundreds of statues. There are several Spirit Road sites that can be visited easily by tourists, however, our favorite is found just North of X’ian and required a short hike to reach. The Spirit Road of the Jianling tomb, made for the Tang Emperor Suzong (reigned 756-762), is difficult to find given its position in the middle of terraced farmland, but worth it once you get there due to the fact that the figures are all partially covered in soil.  The Tang championed realism in all of their sculptural depictions; they are drawn from real life and reflect specific individuals, rather than general types.

Spirit Road Figure - Jianling Tomb (outside X'ian)

Cairo’s Northern Qarafa (cemetery)

Numerous emirs and sultans built there funerary complexes here in Cairo’s Northern Qarafa (cemetery). Our favorite is the funerary complex of Sultan Qaytbay (1472-74), which offers a supreme example of the sophisticated use of overlapping arabesques and geometric patterns to decorate dome exteriors.  This dome represents the high point of the Bahri Mamluke Dynasty’s (1250-1382) architectural legacy.  Our Approach Guide to Islamic Cairo offers additional information on this and other must-see sites in Islamic Cairo.

Dome of the Funerary Complex of Sultan Qaytbay (Cairo)

Sanfelice’s Baroque Staircase in Naples

18th century Neapolitan Rococo architecture is best illustrated in the work of Ferdinando Sanfelice (1675-1748), who is known for his striking staircases. We especially love the Palazzo della Spagnuolo. Via dei Virgini, 19.  Sanfelice’s stairway in this building is distinctive for its height, the large size of its perforations, and the movement of the design. This is a great example of how architecture of the Baroque keeps your eye in movement: notice in this picture how Sanfelice skillfully draws your gaze upward, giving the structure a lightness that would otherwise not exist. Our Approach Guide to Italy: The Italian Baroque offers travelers additional information on this and other architectural gems throughout Italy.

Palazzo della Spagnuolo (Naples)