18th century Neapolitan Rococo architecture is best illustrated in the work of Ferdinando Sanfelice (1675-1748), who is known for his striking staircases. We especially love the Palazzo della Spagnuolo. Via dei Virgini, 19. Sanfelice’s stairway in this building is distinctive for its height, the large size of its perforations, and the movement of the design. This is a great example of how architecture of the Baroque keeps your eye in movement: notice in this picture how Sanfelice skillfully draws your gaze upward, giving the structure a lightness that would otherwise not exist.
Palazzo della Spagnuolo (Naples)
Cultural Travel Guide to Naples
Check out our PDF guide Approach Guide to Italy: The Italian Baroque, which offers travelers additional information on this and other Baroque architectural gems throughout Italy.
The region of Campania (which includes the city of Naples) has more to share with the world than just Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, pizza, Vesuvius and the Amalfi coast; it is also a highlight for wine lovers, producing some of the best wine — both red and white — in all of Italy. We recommend trying a a bold and full-bodied red wine, such as an Aglianico or a medium-bodied and balanced white wine, like a Fiano.
Wine Guide for the iPhone
Learn more about the wines and wine regions mentioned in this post with the Approach Guides Wine iPhone app.
“The aim of this game is to unite travel bloggers in a joint endeavor – to create an amazing list of top travel recommendations across the globe to share with the entire online travel community.” – Katie from Tripbase.com.
So here are our Cultural Travel Secrets:
China’s Spirit Roads: Jianling Tomb
A unique element of the Chinese funerary complex, is the “Spirit Road”, a line-up of statuary that leads to an imperial mausoleum. One of the most striking elements of the Spirit Roads (some which date back to 450 CE) is that they can be up to 1 kilometer long and comprised of hundreds of statues. There are several Spirit Road sites that can be visited easily by tourists, however, our favorite is found just North of X’ian and required a short hike to reach. The Spirit Road of the Jianling tomb, made for the Tang Emperor Suzong (reigned 756-762), is difficult to find given its position in the middle of terraced farmland, but worth it once you get there due to the fact that the figures are all partially covered in soil. The Tang championed realism in all of their sculptural depictions; they are drawn from real life and reflect specific individuals, rather than general types.
Numerous emirs and sultans built there funerary complexes here in Cairo’s Northern Qarafa (cemetery). Our favorite is the funerary complex of Sultan Qaytbay (1472-74), which offers a supreme example of the sophisticated use of overlapping arabesques and geometric patterns to decorate dome exteriors. This dome represents the high point of the Bahri Mamluke Dynasty’s (1250-1382) architectural legacy. Our Approach Guide to Islamic Cairo offers additional information on this and other must-see sites in Islamic Cairo.
Dome of the Funerary Complex of Sultan Qaytbay (Cairo)
Sanfelice’s Baroque Staircase in Naples
18th century Neapolitan Rococo architecture is best illustrated in the work of Ferdinando Sanfelice (1675-1748), who is known for his striking staircases. We especially love the Palazzo della Spagnuolo. Via dei Virgini, 19. Sanfelice’s stairway in this building is distinctive for its height, the large size of its perforations, and the movement of the design. This is a great example of how architecture of the Baroque keeps your eye in movement: notice in this picture how Sanfelice skillfully draws your gaze upward, giving the structure a lightness that would otherwise not exist. Our Approach Guide to Italy: The Italian Baroque offers travelers additional information on this and other architectural gems throughout Italy.
Mount Vesuvius as seen from Naples (Napoli), Italy
A visit to Mount Vesuvius, which sits frighteningly (given historical precedent) close to Naples, is a powerful experience. The volcano is world renowned: its eruption destroyed the famous city of Pompeii in 79 CE and it’s soil is responsible for some of the most delicious foods in Italy, such as San Marzano tomatoes and grapes for local wine grapes such as Fiano and Falanghina.
A tour of Mount Vesuvius, also known as the Vesuvius Crater Trek, is less a hiking experience than a light walk up to the crater, but is an impressive experience nevertheless. You (and what seems like every family in the Naples area) begin the trek by parking your car at an elevation of 1000 meters and then ascend on a path about 150 meters to the crater. There are great views of the crater if there is good weather, however, a mix of clouds and vapor give the mountain an ominous appearance that serves its historical myth.
Best Routes.
Route 5: Gran Cono (The Big Cone – Mount Vesuvius proper). This is a circular trail that offers breathtaking views of Mount Vesuvius and its crater.
Route 6: Strada Matrone (The Matrone brother’s trail). This hike up Mount Vesuvius offers spectacular views of the surrounding area.
To tour or not to tour?
If you are comfortable driving an manual transmission car (stick shift), have a good map, and are not on a super-tight time schedule (like a cruise!), we recommend renting a car and exploring Mount Vesuvius and the surrounding areas on your own.
Getting to Mount Vesuvius by car:
Take the A3 Napoli-Salerno motorway and exit at Torre del Greco or Ercolano. After the motorway toll station, turn left under the motorway bridge and continue along Via Boscocatene. Go straight on at the crossroads in Via B. Cozzolino. Continue for about 2 km up the hairpin road and go straight on at the junction, following directions for Vesuvio. About 300 m after the junction there is a Vesuvius National Park Info Point. Continue up the hairpin road for about 7 km and proceed left at the junction. After about 2 km you arrive at the 1,000 m altitude terrace where you can park and begin your walk up the trail to the crater.
The official website.
The official website for Vesuvius treks is tough to find, but offers some good information for your trip.
The food in Naples, Italy (Napoli) is some of the best on the Italian peninsula. The area of Campania provides local chefs with excellent raw ingredients, which you will find in many of the traditional foods of Naples, Italy: fresh fish sourced directly from the Mediterranean Sea, tomatoes from San Marzano and buffalo mozzarella from nearby Battipaglia.
If you have the chance to stay a few nights in Naples, I highly recommend it. The city has an authentic feel and some incredible restaurants. Below we have listed some of our favorites:
Note: When reserving for restaurants, make sure to do it late (10pm or later) or you will be dining with 1) all tourists or 2) no one.
***Da Dora. 30 Via Ferdinando Palasciano; 39-081/680-519. Very good, old school seafood restaurant; the owners sing periodically through the meal. A great experience and highly recommended; it is certainly our favorite restaurant experience in the city (see video for an explanation)!
Ristorante Pizzeria Bellini Ristoranti. Via S. Maria Di Costantinopoli, 80. Tel 081.459774. Simple restaurant with Neopolitan classics. Linguini al Cartoccio (baked pasta) is a speciality. Pizza also served.
Da Ettore. Via S.Lucia 56 in the San Ferdinando Quarter. Tel 0817640498. Very good, basic restaurant, with very fresh seafood pasta and pizza.
La Stanza del Gusto di Mario Avallone. 21 Vicoletto Sant’Arpino, just off of Via Chiaia; 39-081/401-578. Very good food that is more creative that most other places in Napoli; and unlike most Italian restaurants that try to be creative, this chef is actually successful. If possible, opt for his specials as they are particularly inventive (we ate thinly sliced buffalo meat over a strawberry/onion puree and topped with smoked salmon – his take on vitello tonnato). Very friendly service. Watch for his restaurant in Noto, Sicily.
La Barrique. Piazzetta Ascensione, 9. 081/662721. Excellent little wine bar with a long bar and stools at which you can sit and have a drink (can be difficult to find in Naples). Most people were not there for the bar but for the food (we did not eat here).
When in Naples, we recommend using any of the following guides:
Dining In Italy: Italian Wine Guide – Order the local wines of Campania or any other area like a pro. Our focus is on value, to help consumers learn how to order great wines at reasonable prices.
The Italian Baroque – The Neapolitan Baroque style is very unique and many of the sites are way off the beaten path, giving the visitor insight into the real Napoli.
Ancient Mediterranean Mosaics – Given that most mosaics are a part of a site’s architecture and (unlike paintings or sculptures) cannot travel to museums or art galleries, seeing them in situ (in their original location) is an event unique to travelers. And Naples has a few mosaics worthy of a stop…
The Evolution of Christian Architecture – Very useful if you are visiting cities with different architectural styles (early christian, romanesque, baroque, etc.). Also helpful for nearby Greek sites such as Paestum (a short car drive) and Agrigento (just a ferry ride away in Sicily).
Cultural Travel Guide to Naples
Wine Guide for the iPhone
